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LightGun Assembly

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Filippo Federici edited this page Oct 25, 2024 · 2 revisions

Parts List

3D Printed Parts

  • overview pic with all 3d printed parts and their names

Note

The handle edges that will be in contact with the hand are quite sharp and could use a good sanding.

Other Components & Cables

Note

  • Connector was attached to its terminals.
  • First time I ordered the solenoid, its rod had the advertised diameter (8mm) and the PiGun handle was designed to fit it. Ordered again the same item but the rod was slightly larger and the slot had to be filed down.

Instructions

Important

Before assembling, make sure the Pi Zero W can be accessed via SSH on your WiFi network, and the software is installed.

Camera Holder Assembly

  1. separate the PiCamera detector from its board
  2. connect the detector to the ArduCam extension cable
  3. connect the other end of the extension to the PiCamera board
  4. connect the camera board to the stub ribbon cable
  5. connect the other end of the stub to the Pi Zero

Tip

It might be a good idea to test if the camera works at this point, for example with raspivid.

  1. place an IR-pass filter in the square socket of the camera holder CH
  2. place the camera detector in the same socket
  3. secure CH to FB using two M3 screws and nuts

Note

The detector extension cable should exit from above.

Tip

Use some blue-tac to ensure that the camera cannot move in its socket if that is not the case.

. align the PiZero so that the camera board is inside FB

  • picture here

Holding the front barrel and camera pointed to the right, make sure that the PiZero headers are facing downwards into the table. The detector extension cable is quite long and will need to wrap around the Pi Zero. If the extension cable is metal-coated, wrap it with insulating tape to avoid rapid unscheduled device combustion.

The camera holder assembly is now ready.

Handle Assembly

Note

The 3D printed holes should have the right size to hold the screws in place without a nut on the other side (depending on the printer's precision). However, after putting screws in and out multiple times, the frame will get loose and require the nuts.

. connect HD-L to H-L using two M2 (8mm) screws . place the power supply board in the handle and secure it with two M2 nuts . secure the DPAD panel to H-L using two M2 (8mm) screws (nuts optional if H-L holds the screws in place) . put the DPAD buttons in the corresponding holes in the DPAD panel . place the main PCB in the H-L piece and secure it with M2 (10mm) screws and nuts

. mount the solenoid rod in the slot and secure with an M3 (20mm) screw

Note

Do not run the screw all the way, only until the tip reaches the middle of the rod.

. connect the TRG, RLD and MAG connectors to the main board

. put the TRG and MAG tactile switches in their sockets in H-L

Note

RLD button socket is in H-R, and will be its own new can of worms when mounting that.

. connect the 5V, 24V and solenoid connectors to the main board

. put the buttons BT-TRG and BT-MAG in their slots

. connect the DC socket to the power supply board . place the DC socket in its notch at the base of the handle, and tighten its screw

. put the PiZero in its socket on the main board

. secure the front barrel in its socket in H-L with an M3 screw and a nut

. place the calibration button BT-CAL on its tactile switch on the main board

. secure HD-R to H-R with two M2 screws

Note

At this point it will be impossible to reach inside and put the nuts. The screw could grab onto the PLA and be fine without nut. Alternatively, this step could be done at the beginning, but it will become much harder to make sure BT-RLD goes into in its slot when closing the left and right part of the handle.

. place H-R above H-L, making sure BT-RLD ends up in its slot

. drive all screws connecting the left and right side of the device . the solenoid screw can now be fully driven in and tightened

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Hardware Setup

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